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"10,000 hectares (24,710 acres) of off-piste terrain! No wonder we love this place so much."

Val d'Isere, France review

Image credit: Agence Nuts/OT Val dIsere



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300km of pistes (including Tignes)

Adult lift pass: 218 euros for six days

Resort elevation: 1850m/6070ft

Vertical skiing range: 1900m/6233ft

Average snowfall: "about five metres" (about 200 inches)

The essentials are all in place: a vast off-piste playground, lots of scintillating pistes, and some superb ski schools. Now all Val d'Isère needs to do is drop its prices - and get its fun-loving atmosphere back.

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Official Site www.valdisere.fr

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Piste Map

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ski travel

The pistes - on the higher ground, above Val d'Isère's steep-sided valley, you'll find some of the best cruisers in the world.

The wide-open freeride terrain - 24,170 acres of the stuff!

The scene at the beginning and end of the season. This is a great place for December and April skiing.

The scenery.

The open-air party at the Folie Douce, above La Daille, on sunny afternoons in the spring.

This fine Youtube clip of an entire season in Val d'Isère, compressed into a couple of minutes - "A Season As a Ski Bum" . (Be warned though - it contains shots of naked ski bums. NASTY.)

The selection of top-quality guides and instructors.

The plentiful supply of cheap, basic apartments - which means that Val d'Isère is still (just about) accessible to all.

The top-quality luxury chalets - among the best in the world.

The selection of techie shops. Whatever ski or gizmo you want, you can find it here.

The fact that, despite the ever-rising prices, Val is still, fundamentally, a place where skiing comes first.

The fact that there are 27,000 guest beds in the resort. That's a hell of a lot for a ski resort, and it puts the valley, and the mountain, under lots of pressure in peak weeks.

The price of chalet and hotel accommodation - amongst the highest in the skiing world.

Actually, the price of just about everything else too. As in many French A-list resorts, prices have been scaring off British skiers.

The fact that these high prices are starting to suck the life out of Val d'Isère's famous après-ski scene. Twentysomething Brits are now heading to resorts like Alpe d'Huez for a party.

The chaos on the pistes coming back into the resort in busy weeks. Unless ice-skating and people-slalom is your thing, you should skip the final run and get a lift back down the mountain at the end of the day.


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85%

86%

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Mixed groups of intermediates, advanced and expert skiers. Everyone's going to come home happy at the end of the day - provided the intermediates catch a lift back down into the resort at the end of the day.

Skiers, rather than boarders, because at "about 5 metres" Val's snowfall average doesn't match the powder-monkey meccas of North America.

Party animals - provided your budget is a big one.

Anyone after big off-piste itineraries.

Anyone looking for luxury...

...and, conversely, people who are prepared to sacrifice all creature comforts for the sake of the skiing (thanks to the cheap apartments in La Daille.

Anyone on a budget who doesn't want to stay in a rabbit-hutch apartment.

Beginners. They're making an effort these days to correct the imbalance, but if you're new to skiing or boarding this can still be a scary place.

Anyone looking for a quiet, low-key week away from the world.

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User Comments

sidlia

19/2/2010 23:02

 

 

john, how can you say tignes is better??! val has all the atmosphere, the bars and clubs, the looks, the better position in the centre of the espace killy ski area...i honestly would never stay in tignes when I could stay in val.  Unless maybe I was a really keen snowboarder who wasn't interested in nightlife. 


Yes, it is expensive, but there are still deals to be had on accomodation if you look around.  Just be careful about booking down in La Daille, it's cheap but if you want to make the most of val's nightlife then you'll miss out as you'll have to get the last bus back from the centre of val at half midnight. 


The best apres ski is in Folie Douce up on the slopes.  Down in the village, Cafe Face is pretty good (and cheap: beers start at a euro and go up by about 20 cents or something every half hour) and so is Bananas.  Morris Bar always has live music.  Later on in the night, head for Saloon if you want to party with the seasonaires (and are drunk enough not to care that the cocktails taste like crap), Victors (if you want to drink cocktails that don't taste like crap!) or to Blue Note for some babyfoot.  I did my first season in Val 3 yrs ago and I used to hate Dick's Tea bar so much, but this year I've been going there loads - the new management has really turned it around and now it's not just a tourist trap but a genuinely good night out.

 

poshfpg - yes, the BBQ place at the bottom of madeline is great! and no matter where you've been skiing for the day, you can always get the Solaise Express up from val village and go for a drink in the sun and a deckchair at the big restaurant there.  Never eaten there, but they do good vin chaud!

And don't forget to end at least one night with a trip to infamous Tocade at the La Daille end of the high street...the Tocade burger lives on!

fionaskis

2/12/2009 09:46

 

 

Perhaps they would go to Val for the more interesting and varied slopes, the trees, the prettier village, the choice of ski schools, the après-ski, the restaurants, the luxurious chalets, the excellent hotels... and the fact that Tignes is but a single lift away.

john

1/12/2009 14:47

 

Age:

58

Favourite Resort:

Les Arcs

Favourite Skis:

Atomic SL11

Last Skied:

Jan 2010

 

Val d'Isere is a good resort - a very good resort. The only thing is that Tignes is better. Unless Tignes is full to the rafters why would anyone go to Val?

Jane Stark

31/10/2009 22:10

 

 

I really love Val d'Isere and especially the skiing. I ski private with skimckay (Martin), we have a ball and ski some wonderful snow. I love Val d'Isere for the off piste. Nice restaurants, this is not Courchevel, over the top, this is the best ski resort in the world.
 
Jane Stark

Ken Smith

31/10/2009 14:32

 

 

"It does what it says on the tin" or "You get what you pay for" Yes you've heard it all before but there is an element of truth there. Some resorts offer 30-70% less skiing (which isn't guaranteed) on decrepit lifts yet their costs are not reflective of that. Many people were caught out in the latter half of last season by going to lower resorts thinking that they were getting a bargain because there was snow but in reality it turned out to be a slush fest!
 
The cost of living and working in Val d'Isere is horrendous and that, unfortunately, is passed onto clients one way or another. But what you get is a fantastic resort with first class provision. As JYS said there are very few people making a fortune in Val and in reality maybe some of the cheaper resorts are the ones that are "relatively" overpriced.

JYS

8/9/2009 15:51

 

 

It must really gall Johnnie Foreigner how we Brits start accusing him of whacking his prices up every time sterling collapses!
 
Val d'Isere's prices have hardly changed for years. OK, they were quite high to start with, but surely no higher than in any comparable resort? No-one is getting rich in Val d'Isere, and the village is genuinely worried about its finances.
 
If everything from a lift pass to a lager seems expensive, the main reason is that in Val d'Isere, as everywhere in France, most taxes are raised from business. When you buy a drink you are paying more towards local snow clearing and road mending than you are to the bar owner. When you buy your lift pass, you're also paying for millions of cubic metres of artificial snow and perfect pistes.

Snow-Meister

6/9/2009 13:46

 

 

I'm prepared to pay OTT prices for food and beer on Ski holidays, Ski holidays are never cheap, and I don't expect them to be. What I'm not prepared to do is be blatantly mugged. Average bar in Val, pint (well it's not is it) of weak lager last season was £8!
 
La Folie Douce is outrageously over-priced, Atmosphere was good fun when it got going though.
 
Overall for Food, The French resorts are still lacking. Val was no exception, only the prices.
 
People: always fun and excellent hardcore skiing. sadly all the Henry's and Tabatha's seem to think so too, could be why the prices are stupid.
 
Overall I think Val is losing the plot, I hope they stop the rot and shocking greed!
 

poshfpg

27/10/2008 15:07

 

 

I've been reading your mountain restaurant recommendations, and the Fruitiere, next door to La Folie Douce, is at least as good as your favourite places. It has great food which is served in really interesting ways. It also has the advantage of being easily accessible for non-skiers wanting to meet up the mountain.
 
The Datcha on the Glacier run and the outdoor BBQ and indoor bakery by the lake at the bottom of the Madeleine run are also excellent.
 
People should be warned to avoid the food at the top of both funiculars and the Solaise gondola/chair which is disgraceful, especially the self service. They seem to assume a captive audience, avoid them like the plague.

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